Verona

this is a research page, did not actually go

use carefully, as reference, not as a recommendation

mostly from

http://www.chow.com

$$$need to fix it

cooking

a great kitchen goods shop right near Piazza della Erbe in the center of town.

restaurants

Verona’s cuisine manages to combine Italian sensibilities with
middle-European heft. Menu favourites include sausages and cured
meats, bigoli (hearty spaghetti often served with anchovies or duck)
and Verona’s beloved pastizada de caval, braised horse meat.

Tre Marchetti (vicolo Tre Marchetti 19B, 045 803 0463), round the
corner from the Arena, has been serving food since 1291,
http://www.tremarchetti.it/en/

Al Pompiere see below

Bottega del Vini best in two weeks in italy, to trad in on its history
http://bottegavini.it/

La Fontanina romantic one star michlin

alla Isola

Pizzeria Ristorante Liston
Via Dietro Listone, 19
Verona
045 8034003

One of our best meals in Italy, and we only ended up there because we
tried to go to the place next door, but it was closed. This was the
finest pizza we ate in Italy. It had a Grimaldi’s style crust, but
superior ingredients including buffalo mozzaerlla, cherry tomatoes,
and basil. The lasagne bolognese had a hint of some sort of sweet
spice (nutmeg?).

while Osteria al Duomo (via Duomo 7A, 045 800 4505) is the place to
blend in with the Verona crowd.
The menu at tiny Ostaria La Stueta (via Redentore 4B, 045 803 2462) is
limited and traditional, but unfailingly delicious.
Off via Mazzini, Ristorante Greppia (vicolo Samaritana 3, 045 800
4577) boasts some of the best food in Verona, and
Gelateria Pampanin (via Garibaldi 24, 045 803 0064, closed Tue, 2wks
Aug) has Verona’s best gelato.
A pleasant spot for a drink on quiet piazza San Zeno is Al Mascaron
(No.16, 045 597 081).

#greppia
# Address: Vicolo Samaritana 3
# Phone: 0039 045 8004577
# Directions: The restaurant is tucked away in a side street behind
Via Mazzini, almost the last turning on the right before you reach Via
Capello (which leads into Piazza delle Erbe). The retaurant is closed
on Mondays.
# Website: www.ristorantegreppia.com
Verona, we really liked Restaurant Greppia. It’s at Vicolo Samaritana
3. The phone is 011-39-45-8004577. It’s a rather elegant and quiet
restaurant tucked away on a side street very near the Erbe Market and
Juliet’s house. Seemed to be packed with local people when we stopped
in for lunch. By Italian standards, it’s medium expensive.

Ristorante Antico Tripoli, Via Spagna 2, Verona, tel. 045/803.5756 (no
note of closing day) (very near Basilica di San Zeno). This is a very
attractive restaurant in a renovated stable – large space nicely
broken up with gauzy white curtains here and there. It stars a huge
open hearth where most of the cooking occurs over wood coals – ask to
be seated near the fire unless you are there in very hot weather. I
had an amazing fish carpaccio (three kinds of fish, each marinated in
a different dressing to achieve a sort of ceviche effect) followed by
revelatory baby lamb chops cooked to perfection over those coals and
accompanied by roasted potatoes and an eggplant caponata that was both
fresh-tasting and incredibly rich and luscious. Lovely service. Would
go back in a heartbeat. Fairly expensive.

Ristorante Calanova, Via XX Settembre 13, tel 045/8008309, closed
Tuesday all day and Wed lunch. Very modern, minimalist yet luxe décor.
All seafood menu. Amuse of mussels which were alleged to be fabulous.
Starters were smoked swordfish (very good) and julienne of squid (did
not try but pronounced delicious). Main courses were a fabulous filet
of bronzino with thinly-sliced potato “scales” that had crisped up in
the oven, tiny tomatoes and baby rosemary, and giant prawns (said to
be excellent). Desserts good too. Excellent, solicitous service (we
were the first ones there and we noticed that almost immediately after
we sat down the music changed to a selection of classic American show
tunes and jazz; when the restaurant started to fill up with locals the
music changed over to classical – how hospitable can you get, to greet
guests with their “own” music?). Expensive.

Trattoria Al Pompiere, viccolo Regina d’Ungheria 5, tel 045/8030537,
closed Monday lunch and all day Sunday. The big deal here is their
incredible selection of salumi (cured meats). A corner of the small
restaurant is devoted to shelves of the stuff, together with a
gleaming slicer, all presided over by the boss of the restaurant (we
dubbed him the slicing chef) who also seemed to be the father of the
main waiter. We asked for a selection of the salumi for a starter –
the waiter asked if we wanted ham only or everything – everything we
said. (Turns out “ham” in this case meant what we Americans think of
as prosciutto and what Italians call prosciutto crudo. You are going
to get pork of some sort when you order salumi.) The first time we got
lardo, sopressa, porchetta, and prosciutto – the slicing chef
delivered them and told us where each was from. Each was the best of
its kind we’d ever had – the sopressa was particularly amazing –
melt-in-your mouth tender – we flagged him down and asked him to
repeat where it was from. “Di nuoi” he said, jabbing his finger at his
chest. Wow. Ravioli filled with caramelized onion and tagliatta
(sliced beef) with potatoes and baby salad were also excellent. Second
time there we asked for a selection but please include the sopressa di
vuoi. The slicing chef showed up this time with his sopressa (another
poke in his chest) plus a “flight” of Parma hams: crudo, cotto and
pancetta – excellent again. They also have an amazing cheese selection
which we did not explore, but similarly the cheese waiter will put
together a selection for you and discuss it at great length when he
delivers it. This is a small place and packed at lunchtime –
reservations are essential. Moderate to moderate plus.

Trattoria di Via Stella, via Stella 5c, tel 045/8004824, closed
Monday. A casual spot popular with locals for Sunday lunch. Some of
the very best beef I had on a trip full of good beef – in this case
sliced over rucola salad, the warm beef a lovely contrast with the
crisp greens. Pastas also good. Moderate.

Trattoria all’Isolo, Piazza Isolo, tel 045/594291 (no note of closing
day). A small, family-run place near our apartment and providentially
open on Sunday evenings. A Slow Food selection and appropriately
enough most or all of their offerings are stews and braises. I am
blanking on starters but the osso bucco was delicious. Moderate.

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